A.A. Yes, glass can be drilled or cored with a diamond tipped coring bit. Again, use lots of water.
A.A. Glass tiles can be cut with a wet saw. The blade should be formulated specifically for cutting glass (a large number of small diamonds arranged on a continuous rim) to prevent large chunks of glass from chipping away. Straight, end to end cuts can also be achieved using a straight tile cutter. It is important to use generous amounts of water to cool the tile while cutting.
A.A. Standard unsanded tile grouts are recommended.
A.A. We recommend the use of a fast setting, two-part, polymer-modified white thin set.
A.A. Small tiles (1/2″ up to 4″) are generally glued to a polyester mesh in sheets to assist the installer with a specific layout and speed up the alignment of assemblies. Larger sizes (generally over 4″ wide) become too heavy and are often supplied loose. Of course you can order the material any way you prefer. If your tile is destined for a wet area, we surface mount a clear film instead for no extra cost. This allows for optimal substrate adhesion and is removed after installation. Please let us know if your installation is wet or dry so we can apply the proper mesh.
A.A. All substrates should be flat, clean and fully cured. A crack isolation membrane is highly recommended. No claims with respect to cracking will be accepted unless a crack isolation membrane is installed. Tile can be installed directly over the crack isolation membrane using a glass tile specific white thin set.
A.A. Of course tile installers should be very familiar with the installation of glass tiles, but we are very happy to assist with instructions and to answer any specific questions that may linger.
A.A. Yes you can. There are great guides on youtube and each adhesive manufacturer provides detailed instruction. Of course, we offer our own installation instructions here. But if this sounds new to you, perhaps you should consider hiring a professional tile installer.